Places

Paul Flynn’s South of Ireland Address Book

25th August 2016

Interview: Killian Fox
Photographs: Emile Dinneen

The chef at the Tannery recommends a great Cork institution, a Japanese restaurant where he lets the kitchen decide his order and a new fish shop he’s very excited about

EATING OUT

Ballymaloe House (pictured above)

Midleton, Co. Cork, Ireland; www.ballymaloe.ie
This local country house hotel, now the hub of the Ballymaloe food empire, became a restaurant in the mid-60s under Myrtle Allen, who still keeps a watchful eye over the kitchen. “I had lunch at Ballymaloe on Monday and it was utterly superb. It started with some hors d’oeuvres and then we had turbot for main course, which was just amazing. I was there with a few friends and we didn’t want to leave.” – Paul

Miyazaki

1A Evergreen St, Cork; Facebook
“This is a brilliant Japanese restaurant in Cork. You wouldn’t be going there for a long comfortable lunch – he’s only got six seats – but his food is utterly astounding. I’ve been going as much as I can and I eat whatever he throws out to me. It’s just him and one other cook. He’s Japanese – an absolute gentleman. I love going there.”

Farmgate

Broderick St, Coolbawn, Midleton, Co. Cork; www.farmgate.ie
“Farmgate is for really good Irish food. There’s two of them – one in Midleton and one at the English Market in Cork – and they’re both really lovely. They’ve got really good taste: sculptures and whatever – it makes me feel like a tasteless thug. And the food is really good, and always consistent. That’s a really huge thing.”

Campagne

5, The Arches, Gas House Ln, Kilkenny; www.campagne.ie
“A friend of mine has a restaurant in Kilkenny and he’s doing what hardly anyone’s doing these days – classical food with beautiful old-school flavours and not a random flower in sight. It’s totally refreshing. I’d say if he saw a forager, he’d shoot him.”

The Bay Tree Bistro

16 Merchants Quay, Waterford; Facebook
“There’s a place called the Bay Tree in Waterford City that I must try, I’ve been hearing loads of things about it.”

Mulcahy’s

Main St, Kenmare, Co. Kerry; www.kenmare.com/mulcahys
“Kenmare is a beautiful place and we love eating there. Mulcahy’s does really great food and we also go to Packie’s, which is more old-fashioned but the food is utterly delicious.”

The Local

10 Grattan Square, Dungarvan, Co Waterford; Facebook
We ask Paul if he has a favourite pub in Dungarvan. “Merry’s on the corner is a very nice pub, very popular, but I generally go to the Local, because there’s great music. Traditional Irish music of the highest level.”

BUYING IN

South Coast Seafood

38 Mary Street, Dungarvan; Facebook
Admiring the bit of plaice Paul is adding to the chowder for lunch, we make a comment about how nice the seafood must be in Dungarvan. “Do you know what,” he says, “it’s taken ages to get good fish around here – years – even though we have the sea right next to us. But this fish shop has just opened in Dungarvan and I’m very excited about it. It’s very good. Whenever I go there, I’m like a kid in a sweetshop.”

Knockalara Sheep’s Cheese

Knockalara, Cappoquin, Co. Waterford; +353 24 96326
“We’ve a couple of really good cheesemakers around here, including Knockalara sheep’s cheese on the way to Cappoquin,” Paul tells us. At Knockalara, Agnes and Wolfgang Schliebitz have been making cheese from their friesland sheep since 1990. You can find them at the food market in Waterford town (every Saturday from 10am-4pm in John Roberts Square) – or give them a call and buy direct.

Comeragh Mountain Lamb

Comeragh, Lemybrien, Co. Waterford; www.comeraghmountainlamb.ie
“This is beautiful lamb from the mountains across there. You can buy it at a few shops around the county or just order it from the website. It’s not terribly customer-friendly: you’ve got to buy half a lamb at a time, which would suit me but not necessarily the regular customer.”

Posted 25th August 2016

In Places

 

Interview: Killian Fox
Photographs: Emile Dinneen

More Places

Zoe Adjonyoh’s London Address Book – The founder of Zoe's Ghana Kitchen recommends a "chaotic and homely" Georgian restaurant, an unpretentious tapas bar and her favourite Ghanaian market store

Roger Phillips’ London Address Book – The mushroom expert recommends his favourite bistro, two great London institutions and his local farmers' market

Erwin Gegenbauer’s Vienna Address Book – The master vinegar brewer recommends two great Viennese gasthauses, a favourite market deli for Italian snacks and a very interesting sweets workshop

Ryan Chetiyawardana’s London Address Book – The bar owner on a classic restaurant and its various offshoots, a kebab joint that plays heavy metal and (probably) his favourite food shop in London

Explore the world through food